Homestay: The End is Near

As I was walking here to write what felt like an obligatory update, I realized the reason that it's become so hard to write these posts recently—updating my friends and family requires that I take a step back from everything I'm experiencing, and the closer I come to leaving, the less I want to step out of it all, even for a half hour at an internet cafe. But since I introduced this as obligatory, I suppose I must go on.

So first, I guess I should start off where I left off. The question of Artsakh. I had the great pleasure of spending more or less 3 days in the Artsakh region and by the time I left, I no longer had the lingering question of why the Armenian government was pouring in so much money into what seemed like an inevitable end.

The third day of the trip we took a (mostly pointless) hike up the side of a large hill and stopped to discuss the situation as it now sits. I asked our leader of sorts, Sevan, a question that seemed the most logical to ask: "what would be the economic impact of losing Artsakh?" I asked the question because to me, that is how a government thinks. Obviously bringing yet another war to the region is not the best for the people of Artsakh and the way the political tension between the two countries is accumulating, war seems inevitable; Azerbaijan continually claims they will reclaim Artsakh, and as Sevan said in response to my "logical" question, "The economic impact of the loss is about 2% of the picture in comparison to the spiritual and emotional loss ... losing Artsakh is just not an option." So clearly someone isn't going to get what they want.

Do I think that war is the best solution to the issue? No. Do I think it is the most likely way the conflict will be more permanently solved? Yes. But the fact of the matter, and the reason my opinion about Armenia's interest in Artsakh changed, is because unlike the rest of the country, progress is evident in Artsakh nearly everywhere. The capital is beautiful and clean, the villages are generally well kept and being continually improved. Unlike Gyumri or even Yerevan, people have invested so much in Artsakh, from fortunes to family members, and if keeping Artsakh means keeping this spirit alive, then by all means, Armenia needs to hold on to it. What I failed to realize before, is that if Artsakh is reclaimed by Azerbaijan, the apathy that grips much of the country will only spread to those who still stand dedicated to improving their motherland. Artsakh is living proof that good things are to come to the country with a renewed Armenian cohesion.

On a lighter note, I've gone on two picnics in as many days and eaten more horovats (no idea how to spell that one) and melon than I ever thought possible. I spent the weekend in Yerevan and had a blast with my friends here. I cooked breakfast both mornings which I definitely haven't done in a long time, and I got a tattoo, which will almost certainly be the last time. I'm making more friends outside of Depi Hayk that are eager to show me places in and out of Gyumri that you just can't see with 30 other volunteers. And I'm definitely starting to wish I was staying longer, and could do more for a country that still needs so much help. But I'm realizing that I'll be back sometime soon. However, let's forget that I'm leaving two weeks from today and appreciate how much fun and how much I'm learning right now, and milk this experience for all it's worth.

And as a prize for reading my blog even when I rarely update, here are some pictures:

Ararat (all my pictures from that day have that spot, so I guess I'll have some photoshopping to do when I get back)